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The Deep Dish
An insider look at food and farming from Civil Eats |
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Issue 20, June 2023: The Dismantling of the Food Safety Net |
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The Editors' Desk |
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In this issue, we turn to an increasingly serious problem: food insecurity and the political will, or lack thereof, to help end it in the U.S.
We break down the ways in which recent cuts to food assistance, or SNAP, have impacted food emergency services and health outcomes, and talk to five Americans whose lives have been changed by receiving SNAP benefits, including farmers and farmworkers who are producing food they aren’t able to afford themselves. Each person offers us a unique perspective and potential solutions to an overwhelming challenge.
Be sure to check out our member update, and join our new Slack community just for members, where we can continue these conversations.
~ The Civil Eats Editors |
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Member Updates |
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Civil Eats Member Slack Community
We’re piloting a new Slack community for members to engage more directly with our team and with each other and we want you to join!
The community has five channels:
● What’s New: Updates and announcements
● Lunch Break: What inspires you about recipes, books, restaurants, etc.
● The Edit Room: Conversations about our reporting and newsletters
● Community Hub: Share and learn about Civil Eats’ members and team
● What We Are Reading: The Civil Eats team shares food-related article recommendations
Help us build our new Civil Eats Slack Community. If you’d like to participate, please review the Community Rules and Agreements and accept this invitation link, which is good through Friday, June 30. (Here are the instructions if you’re participating in Slack for the first time.)
What Values Do You Most Appreciate in Civil Eats' Work?
As an organization, we are working together to define the values that guide our work and how we engage with the public and our members. An important part of this work is getting input from our stakeholders, and we would love for Civil Eats supporting members like you to help us in the process. Please review this list and choose up to five values that you think Civil Eats exhibits. Once we’ve gathered input, we’ll share our final list of values and discuss how they will apply to our work. Thank you in advance for your help!
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Our Investigation Wins a James Beard Award
We’re thrilled to share that Civil Eats has won the 2023 James Beard Foundation Journalism Award for Investigative Reporting for our series, Injured and Invisible! These awards honor the country’s top authors and journalists, and we’re honored to have been recognized for our investigative journalism.
Whether you’ve been following along with this series from the beginning, or are reading it for the first time today, you can celebrate with us by upgrading your support with a donation. We are so grateful for you, our members, for your continued support and belief in our work. Your donation ensures our reporters can investigate underreported issues like these.
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First Look: 4 Ways Cuts to SNAP Will Affect Food Security
By ANNE MARSHALL-CHALMERS |
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In 2004, long before the term “food insecurity” had entered the mainstream lexicon, Dr. Hilary Seligman met with a prediabetic patient. A man in his 50s, he shared that he typically ate a slice of spam sandwiched between two cinnamon rolls for lunch. When Seligman wondered why, he said it was affordable, filling, and available. The interaction inspired Seligman to research all the ways in which limited or uncertain access to food could damage health, including acting as a risk factor for diabetes.
Since then, Seligman, who is a professor of medicine, epidemiology, and biostatistics at the University of California, San Francisco, has seen how the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) is key to ensuring access to a variety of foods for the 41 million low-income and disabled Americans who rely on it. “There’s a lot of evidence that shows that SNAP reduces food insecurity by 20 to 30 percent,” she says.
In March 2020, the federal government passed a law significantly boosting SNAP benefits. Known as “emergency allotments,” there were adjustments during the pandemic that ensured all eligible households had more money for food. One change maximized benefits and led to an average increase of $105 per household. About a year later, another adjustment ensured every household, no matter their level of assistance, received at least $95.
It’s widely believed these emergency allotments likely prevented a massive food insecurity crisis over the last three years. In households with children, food insecurity actually dropped to 12.5 percent in 2021, down from nearly 15 percent the year prior. |
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"There’s a lot of evidence that shows that SNAP reduces food insecurity by 20 to 30 percent."
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As of March 2023, however, the emergency allotments ended in most states, and households’ benefits were once again determined by the pre-pandemic formula. According to the Food Research & Action Center (FRAC), some older adults have experienced the steepest cliff, with their monthly SNAP benefits falling from as high as $281 down to $23. The recent debt ceiling deal will add to the challenges, as it will extend the current 80 hour/month work requirements to adults who are 52 later this year and 54 in 2024.
While the emergency allotments were always intended to be temporary, in 2021, the USDA also recalculated what each household needs in assistance to afford well-balanced, cost-effective meals moving forward. Known as the Thrifty Food Plan, the update helped permanently raise the maximum SNAP benefit by about 21 percent.
Still, with the disappearance of emergency allotments, along with consistently high food costs, Seligman believes there’s “a perfect storm” for a delayed surge in food insecurity. Many hunger advocates and researchers believe the end to emergency allotments—coupled with the revised work requirements for SNAP—will likely have both immediate and far-reaching impacts, including the following:
1. It Puts Pressure on Food Banks
Leah Gardner, policy director with Hunger Solutions Minnesota, says in the last two months, visits to food shelves that distribute donated and surplus food in the state have spiked. This comes after a record number of visits in 2022. “I think people are going to be turning to food shelves for a while now. And [they] are pretty maxed out already,” she says. “Thankfully, we were able to get emergency funds expedited through our legislative session. So, we are about to give $5 million more in resources to food shelves in anticipation of this.” But that hasn’t happened in every state.
In Colorado, the director of Food Bank of the Rockies Western Slope told her local newspaper, “Overall, we’re distributing 23 percent more food than we were before COVID.” In Pennsylvania, Central PA Food Bank saw a 15 percent increase in food pantry visits in the last two months. At the Capital Area Food Bank, in Washington D.C., the staff reported a 13 percent increase in the amount of fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, and canned goods it distributed in March. And in San Francisco, the SF-Marin Food Bank says it is serving 74 percent more people than in 2019, even while the city’s mayor is proposing cutting all $10 million in city funding for the organization.
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"There's really good evidence that the money being put into SNAP benefits is being recouped in saved healthcare costs."
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All the changes to SNAP in the last two years have resulted in some confusion, says Jerome Nathaniel, director of policy and government relations with City Harvest, which may also contribute to long lines at food banks and free feeding sites. “It’s hard to be in a situation where your food budget is so unpredictable,” he says.
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2. It Will Likely Lead to Poor Health Outcomes
A 2022 report from the Center on Budget and Policy Priorities (CBPP) found that food insecure households spend roughly 45 percent more on medical care than households with stable food access. It also found that SNAP recipients are more likely to report excellent or good health than low-income individuals not receiving food assistance. UCSF’s Seligman worries that with the expiration of emergency allotments, money for food will have to come from somewhere, and for many that may mean abandoning medication.
Alternatively, households may revert to eating lower quality, highly processed foods. “Cheaper foods in the United States tend to be very energy-dense, nutrient-poor foods that predispose people to obesity and diabetes,” she says. “And this is a really important mechanism for increasing health disparities.”
According to the CBPP report, the health risks and strain associated with food insecurity fall disproportionately on people of color; Black and Latin American households have been at least twice as likely to experience food insecurity as white households over the last 20 years.
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"In rural communities, there aren't a lot of community locations that kids can regularly and easily get to during the summer, much less twice a day for breakfast and lunch."
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Seligman says the (largely Republican) politicians who attack the program for its cost and size are ignoring the “downstream” costs of poor health. “There’s really good evidence that the money being put into SNAP benefits is being recouped in saved healthcare costs,” she says.
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3. Children Will Not Be Spared—Although Summer Might Pose an Exception
Food insecurity is linked to poor health and academic performance in kids and, Seligman says, young adults face their own hardships. “We also know food-insecure adolescents are more likely to engage in risky behavior. For boys, that is often shoplifting, which can expose people to the criminal justice system for the first time and that can have a life-changing impact,” she says. “For girls, it’s often having sexual relationships with older men who can pay for food.”
At the end of 2022, as legislators in D.C. negotiated the end-of-the-year budget bill (aka the Consolidated Appropriations Act), Democrats agreed to end SNAP’s emergency allotments in exchange for increased spending on summer meals for low-income kids.
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According to the GAO, 70 percent of adult wage-earning SNAP recipients worked full time every week. |
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Starting next year, low-income families will receive a monthly $40 grocery benefit per child during the summer months. And starting this year, families in rural areas will be able to pick up meals in bulk from designated sites or have them delivered. “In rural communities, there aren’t a lot of community locations that kids can regularly and easily get to [at all] during the summer, much less twice a day for breakfast and lunch,” says Carolyn Vega, associate director of policy at Share Our Strength, a nonprofit advocacy group that runs the No Kid Hungry campaign. “This ability to do weekly meal boxes and things like that really helps with those transportation issues.”
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4. It Risks Reviving Old Prejudices
Lorrie Clevenger, senior co-director of U.S. programs at WhyHunger, a nonprofit focusing on solutions to hunger, says she’s troubled that with the COVID-19 emergency ending, there’s a return to old tropes around hunger. “[There is] this narrative that people who need SNAP, Medicaid, [or] other forms of public assistance have done something personally in their own lives to get themselves into that situation,” she says, adding, “which is simply not the case.”
A 2017 CBPP study found that the share of households wherein members worked jobs while participating in SNAP rose from 19 percent in 1990 to 32 percent in 2015. In the case of some low-wage occupations—for example, house cleaners, dishwashers, and home health aides—at least one quarter of the workers participate in SNAP, though it may be for only a brief time and not a sustained year-around benefit. According to the GAO, 70 percent of adult wage-earning SNAP recipients worked full -time every week.
Meanwhile, food workers—including those who work on farms, in restaurants, and in grocery stores, among others—are twice as likely to need SNAP than other U.S. workers. A recent eye-opening report from Economic Roundtable, a nonprofit research organization, found that one out of 17 homeless workers in California work in fast food.
Clevenger says WhyHunger’s hotline, which refers callers to local food banks and feeding sites, as well as their database of referral information, saw a 134 percent increase when the pandemic hit, and the requests have not slowed down, despite the recent end of the public health emergency. She says most people who call in are seniors, but it’s not uncommon to hear from people who are “working one, two, three jobs and still aren’t able to afford their basic cost of living.” Clevenger is frustrated that the end to emergency allotments will only increase need, and that the many inequities COVID-19 has laid bare are now at risk of being forgotten in the rush to shed pandemic-era assistance.
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Interviews: How Food Assistance Changes Lives |
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Kyler Daniels, SNAP Recipient
By CHRISTINA COOKE
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Kyler Daniels lives with her boyfriend and 4-year-old in North Carolina, where she works for Down East Partnership for Children while completing her master’s degree in social work. She has been receiving SNAP benefits since 2019.
When you were getting SNAP originally, what difference did that make for you and your family? |
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It was security for us. We started off getting about $212 or $215 each month. Then three or four months later, we started getting the maximum amount for our household because of COVID. Then we were earning about $600 total. We didn’t have to worry about meals. We didn't have to worry about supplementing.
We could get our daughter the snacks she wanted—the fruit cups, yogurt, and applesauce. We could engage her in the shopping experience without having to worry about how much things were going to cost. |
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You said that in April you received $31 in SNAP benefits, and in May, you did not receive any benefits at all.What types of shopping decisions are you having to make given this drop in support?
Now, I go into the grocery store and try to crunch numbers. You don’t want to get up [to the register] and overspend and then have to go back and decide what to do.
At the beginning of the month, we look at what we have. . . [and] decide right then how much we're going to take off for food after we pay the bills that need to get paid. If there is a bill we don't have enough money for, we decide which one we will get less penalties from—which one will work with us, which one will extend the deadline.
When I know we need it, I will [pick up shifts driving] for DoorDash. But then I'm tired all the time—when do we get to sleep?
I imagine access to healthier food is harder right now.
Yeah, definitely. Inflation has really hiked up the prices on things. Trying to get lettuce for a salad, or organic foods is higher. So, we don't do that as often.
How does your daughter complicate the decisions that you're making around food?
We wouldn't eat at times to make sure that she had food—or we’d just eat noodles, something quick that we can make at the house—to make sure she can eat what she wants. She's a picky eater. I don't want to force her to eat something that she doesn't like and then see her be hungry.
Are there challenges to navigating the benefit system? Did you run into any stumbling blocks?
I have never been 100 percent sure about why I received the benefits that I did. The application is not user-friendly. I am college-educated, getting a master's degree, and there are things on there I don't understand. For the average American, trying to get those benefits—and already being stressed out about needing them, with the negative stigma that goes along with it—is frustrating enough.
Can you describe the emotional toll on you?
Emotionally, there will be times where I would feel like a failure because we're very low [on money], and it's not the end of the month [so I'm not] about to get paid. It's like, what do we do now? We’re constantly encouraging each other and ourselves to keep going. Nobody should have to deal with that on a daily basis. I feel like a bad parent for not being able to provide whatever my daughter needs, whatever she wants, especially when it comes to something as basic as food.
What would you like to see in this upcoming farm bill for SNAP and other programs that help people in need?
I would like it to be easier for people to apply [for SNAP]. If we had the revenue to give people the extra benefit during the pandemic, what is the difference now, especially if you are charging so much more for food?
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"The application is not user-friendly. I am college-educated, getting a master's degree, and there are things on there I don't understand." |
There's more that goes into needing food than what we make—I don't think that [income] should be the first thing you look at. I moved in with my sister, so I don't have a mortgage or a lease right now, but I'm still paying [for housing]. It's hard to [reflect that expense] on the SNAP application.
So what do you wish that people—and lawmakers—who are in favor of cutting SNAP and other benefits programs understood about the people who use those programs?
We want the same things that they have. And not every person who needs assistance looks the same and has the same circumstances. It's not black and white; there are areas of gray.
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Adela Martinez, Farmworker
By JULIA KNOERR |
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Adela Martinez is a seasonal farmworker living in Immokalee, Florida—the nation’s “tomato capital.” This interview is a preview of a longer feature about community responses to food insecurity that will appear on Civil Eats later this month. The following responses have been translated from Spanish.
Where do you and members of your community access food? How do challenges in access shape daily life?
Here in Immokalee, the [farms] primarily grow a lot of vegetables: tomatoes, chiles, cucumbers, and fruits in some areas as well. The growers bring them to a market area, and I buy food there when I don’t go to Walmart or Sam’s [Club]. Although I could buy food somewhere nearby, I [often] go further. I usually look for the place with the most affordable prices.
There are places that give out food, like vegetables, noodles, and rice. I look for food in the most affordable places because I don’t have a steady job. I’ve used coupons; I’ve used everything that I have at home so that I don’t waste anything. It’s also difficult for people who live far away from the places that donate food. Although they might want to go, sometimes they can’t drive, it’s very hot outside, or they have small children.
How has your access to food changed since the pandemic, and did changes in SNAP allowances impact you?
It’s a truly great help. There was an increase twice, and I didn’t want to spend it just anywhere. I had to look at what I bought and get what was affordable. In the small stores here, I have noticed that a single banana can cost you $1, but in Walmart, you can get lots of bananas for $1.50. [SNAP assistance] is very helpful for me. Now they don’t give as much, but it’s something.
I always try to economize what I can in every way. During the pandemic, things weren’t like they are now. Sometimes [the assistance] was enough for me to buy everything for two weeks—meat and lots of fruits and vegetables. But now, it’s not. I go to Walmart to buy what I need, and I sometimes spend $250 or $300. Sometimes I get extra things, but with this [reduction] and the lack of work here now, you don’t have the luxury of buying what you want. You think about everything: your rent, phones, and many things. Now I don’t buy anything like $250 or $300 worth of food. What they give me now [in assistance] for a month lasts me one week.
What are some potential solutions to improving food access in Immokalee?
[The Cultivate Abundance community garden] is a blessing for me. When I wasn’t working, we would go there to help, and they would give us herbs and other things. For me, that’s a lot, because in reality, if you go to the store, you spend $5 or $6 on herbs—for cilantro, for a cabbage. If [they were] able to do [the gardening] on a larger scale, it would be a great help for many people. The store owners take advantage of people who don’t have a car to get to more affordable stores. If there was a place that could help harvest more vegetables and fruits, that would be [helpful].
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(USDA photo by Lance Cheung)
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Tricia Kastelitz, School Food Professional
By ANNA GUTH
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Tricia Kastelitz is the coordinator of nutrition and student wellness education at Suffolk City Public School District in Virginia. She is one of many in roles like hers who have had to find creative ways to feed families during difficult times.
How does food insecurity shape day-to-day life for members of your school community?
I wish more people could understand that food insecurity is a fluid situation, and it can go up and down during the month. It is also a spectrum. Sometimes, when we think about food insecurity, we only think about the students who don’t have any food at home. But there are also a lot of people in that gray range who eat every day, but maybe they can’t afford [to buy] healthy foods. Or, the kids are eating every day, but their parents are skipping meals. Or, they eat every day, but a lot of their food is coming from a food pantry or some other social service. I think it’s important to remember that those children, and families, are also food insecure.
After the federal universal meals offered during the pandemic ended, how did access to food in your district change?
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We are a CEP [Community Eligibility Provision] district, which means that all our students are still eating free breakfast and lunch because of the amount of students who are “directly certified.” We actually opted into the CEP program in the middle of the pandemic, so our students and our families never really felt a difference between the universal feeding and free CEP meals we offer now. But I think making permanent universal free meals is definitely a concern on the horizon. We are a borderline district: Forty [percent] is the number to qualify for CEP. Last year, we were under 40.
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As the menu planner, can you describe the challenges of shifting from remote meal deliveries back to in-person meals?
During COVID, we had to shift to mostly pre-packaged foods, mostly for safety reasons. The downside was that we became more reliant on those types of foods. Trying to make that transition back has been very challenging. Our biggest challenge right now is labor, and we are always looking to hire more people so we can begin to provide more home-cooked meals. We were really fortunate that our district chose to pay all of our [cafeteria] staff completely during the pandemic, but a lot of our older staff just decided not to come back, either because of health concerns or they had gotten used to being home.
How have recent cuts to the food safety net, following the end of the COVID public health emergency, affected your community?
The reduction in SNAP benefits often leads our families to make up that money elsewhere and to really try to find more resources. We have some close community partners—food banks and other feeding sites. I know they have [seen more demand] in the past few months. Recently, we’ve also had an uptick in people trying to go back and look at theirP-EBT[Pandemic Electronic Benefit Transfer] benefits, [which are still available to families eligible for free or reduced-price school meals this summer]. And that makes me think that people are seeking more resources for food.
What is one thing that our readers could do to better support people in your position?
The more partners who get involved in school nutrition, and the more people who have a finger in the pot, so to speak, the better for everyone. If you feel called to help with school meals, call up your school nutrition department and see what they need. Asking the people you’re trying to help what they need is so, so important—especially in the food web, which is so different depending on where you are.
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A Pueblo supermarket in Puerto Rico. (Photo CC-licensed by Mike Dixon) |
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Jayson Call, Puerto Rico NAP recipient
By LINDSAY TALLEY |
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For all the shortcomings of SNAP, the situation in Puerto Rico poses even more challenges. The U.S. territory currently uses the Programa de Asistencia Nutricional (PAN), but many Puerto Ricans are hoping Congress will help the territory transition to SNAP instead. Jayson Call, a current PAN beneficiary, explains how this program falls short and why he thinks it’s important to improve food assistance for the people of Puerto Rico.
How did you first learn about PAN? Were you on the program growing up, or did you begin to access the benefits as an adult? |
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My family did use it for a little while when I was a child, before they were able to establish themselves economically and leave the program. But I went on PAN as an adult because I have a child with type 1 diabetes. I had to stop working to help him.
The application system is very complicated, and every time I submitted, they denied it. But then I found out that I could submit my son's medical expenses and my [medical expenses], and with that they qualified me.
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My son's expenses are about $4,000 a month in medication. It's not easy. If I go to work, I can't make enough money to maintain the cost of living and my children's medication. It was a tough process to apply because not even the employees who work there advise you correctly [to figure out how to present your finances to qualify for food assistance]. They said, [because I made $1 too much] I didn't qualify. For a dollar! And if you don't have someone to help you, you don't know how to qualify for the program. I was looking for alternatives for months until someone told me [about] the medical expense [deduction].
How does food insecurity shape your day-to-day life, and the lives of other members of your community?
We have seen how inflation has [raised prices]. There are times when you say, “How is it possible that with $100 or $200 10 years ago, I could fill my cart?” Today with the $400 that [PAN] gives me, it doesn’t come close. And now there is a third-quality product [food that is lower quality than what is sold in the mainland U.S.] that you have to buy in order to eat the same thing you ate before. Many people, a lot of senior citizens, have even less and have to choose between buying food, personal toiletries, or medications.
What is one thing that could make a substantial difference in the lives of food-insecure Puerto Ricans?
The creation of community kitchens is really needed. A fund for the people to convert abandoned schools into community kitchens. Because, remember, communities know what is needed and how to solve things here.
Another thing that could be beneficial is more food banks. Right now there is justa single [food bank in Puerto Rico,] in Carolina, and it really can't keep up. We need one in Ponce, one in Ceiba. It's not like in the United States, where many of the churches have food banks. |
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What can our readers do to better support and help people in your position?
Any organizations or individuals that are able to send funds to Puerto Rico could partner with local organizations and individuals in order to recuperate some of the abandoned schools (of which there are many) and turn them into community kitchens.
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Doug “digs” DeCandia, Farmer
By TWILIGHT GREENAWAY
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When we spoke to Doug “digs” DeCandia earlier this month, he was in the process of getting the crops in the ground for his first full season on a 1-acre farm in New York’s Adirondack Mountains. He had been growing food for years, and had spent time studying the kinds of intensive, soil-focused, regenerative practices that he hoped would allow him and his partner to produce a great deal of food and medicinal herbs from that acre. |
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While growing food for his community, DeCandia was working other jobs to pay the bills, and he was also using SNAP andDouble Up Food Bucks NY—one of many programs around the country that matches SNAP dollars for fresh, local produce—to help him buy his own groceries. He did much of his grocery shopping at the Hub on the Hill, a local food hub in the Adirondacks that seeks to make its food accessible to a range of shoppers and eaters as part of its mission to “support, strengthen, and build equity within [its] local food system.”
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Hub on the Hill is the nation’s first food hub to take SNAP and Double Up Food Bucks online, but DeCandia does most of his shopping in person, and he hopes to help take some of the stigma away from the idea of using SNAP by speaking about it openly.
“I don’t want to normalize it, because nobody should be food insecure. But for people like myself, who are trying to figure out a way to make a living without killing ourselves, everything helps, honestly—especially with good food, which is more expensive,” he told Civil Eats.
DeCandia is not in a rare situation. Growing food doesn’t always pencil out financially, and small-scale farmers typicallyrely on off-farm sources for the majority of their household income. It’s not unusual for farmers and farmworkers to turn to food support programs—and when they do, they’re often acutely aware of the irony.
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"For people like myself, who are trying to figure out a way to make a living without killing ourselves, everything helps, honestly."
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“I think fruits and vegetables should cost what they’re worth,” says DeCandia. “There’s the farmer’s labor, and what the land is producing, and it’s important to have all that goodness and that intention reflected in what people are willing to pay and support.” He adds that he likes how Double Up Food Bucks supports food-insecure people and farmers at the same time.
“Capitalism has its limitations, for sure,” DeCandia says. “I think part of it is that it puts people in competition [with one another], and it also just makes people feel really crappy if they can't provide for themselves in that competitive system. It feels nice to know that people are looking out for each other and that we actually do depend on one another. And [using SNAP for local food is] like, you getting what you need, with resources that you have available in this moment, is also helping me out.” That mutual benefit makes a difference, he says, and makes him feel less of a sense of shame about using the benefits.
DeCandia isn’t surprised by the recent cuts to SNAP, but he says, “It's not like everything is back to what it was four years ago—and it won't be. A lot of things have changed.”
The farmer says he appreciated getting a glimpse of a social safety net that worked to keep people fed, and he’s disconcerted by what feels like a step backward for the country. But it has made him all the more determined to get the food he grows to the people who need it most: He plans to donate this year’s harvest to local food shelves.
“They're taking these things away that are working, they’re showing us that we're still stuck in this other system,” he says. “I wish that things were different, but I'm not gonna get upset about it. I've learned that it’s possible to take care of each other and that's what I'm moving on now.”
All interviews were lightly edited for length and clarity.
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That's all for this issue of The Deep Dish. Thank you for reading, and thank you for being a member of the Civil Eats community. If this is your first time reading The Deep Dish (welcome!), be sure to check out our previous issues:
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